A short and tasty trip to Medellín proved that the Colombian city is a culinary force to be reckoned with.
Guess who's back in the house?
Well, it has been a minute... the work-life balance is never easy and it has been challenging to get creative with my projects when I create for others for a living. One thing is for sure, the content is always being made and I finally took some time to get into the Medellín guide I have been teasing.
For our local islanders in Aruba, Medellín is a very attractive and recently on the rise destination. In just over two hours and for flights around $300 you can go to a completely different scenery. Medellín has lovely weather, great nightlife, lots of shopping, and most importantly, insane culinary culture. I thought it could be cool to make a guide of all the things to try when in Medellin, of course, I only visited for a few days but I’m happy to tell you about the highlights.
Enough of the talk and let's get into it.
Espíritu by Alvaro Clavijo
When I got into my hotel room, I noticed a flyer on the table with an ad for the new rooftop restaurant. Nada mas y nada menos que Espíritu by Alvaro Clavijo "El Chato" One of the most prominent figures in the Colombian culinary scene. It was not in my plans to dine there since I had already made reservations for other coveted spots in the city but I had to check it out, so I made plans to go there for a little cocktail hour before dinner.
The restaurant is located on the 21st floor of the Novotel Hotel El Tesoro and offers incredible views. The decor is very raw, with lots of stones, wood, natural fibers, and textiles. The vibe is very grown-up, with lots of nostalgic details and a nod to pre-Columbian pottery and craftsmanship.
Now, I only had the chance to imbibe in some Martinis and they were incredible. Can't wait to go back for the food. Alvaro Clavijo will be in Aruba for the Autentico Culinary Festival at the Aruba Marriott and if you were one of the lucky ones to snatch a ticket for that dinner (I did not 😩) I envy you!
Cocktails are priced around $12. They open for lunch and dinner.
Espíritu is located here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vV9FQPEVhtmsUGwV9
Instagram: Restaurante Espíritu
Mamba Negra
This one has a big rep. Part of the 50 Best Discovery, a badge good enough to get everyone's attention, Mamba Negra sits at the top of a tall financial building which adds to the sexy vibe. Imagine some drinks after work and very well into the night... yes, please.
When I got there, the building lobby seemed very empty, a small stand with a hostess where you have to give your reservation details (they probably don't take walk-ins) and then they will give you access to the elevator. Once you reach the top floor, the experience begins.
I probably gasped audibly.
The sexiest orange hue lights up the place just enough to impact and still keep it dark. The staff is impeccably dressed all wearing Stan Smith's and aprons. The views are almost 360. Tables indoors and outdoors, the attention to detail is like few places I've been in.
Drinks were enjoyed and I gotta say they were perfect. What immediately caught my attention was the service, I can't begin to explain even: not a single glass got empty and sat there, not a single coaster got soggy, not a drop of water stayed unwiped, they changed the cutlery several times, and the cloth napkins, few seconds after the last bite of food, plates got removed, you feel they have eyes on you the whole time but it never feels intrusive. We all were beyond impressed.
Dinner service starts with a complimentary pan de yuca with cheese, a true local delicacy that I am glad to see taking the stage here.
I have not stopped thinking about this Tostada de Tomatina (Bread and Tomatoes). So flavorful yet so simple. I am determined to figure out the recipe.
Temari de Atún: a fresh tuna tartare with charred avocado on top of hazelnut butter.
Crispy Rice: Sweet chile mayo, wasabi salt, and crispy (reaally crispy) rice. MUST-have.
Pulpo (octopus): Grilled with hazelnut butter, potatoes, garlic confit, and De LaVera peppers.
Tuna Tataki: Seared tuna, Korean BBQ, breadcrumbs. This was the only one that was a little bland but I get it. It might’ve been overshadowed by all the other strong flavors.
Arroz Rabo de Toro (Oxtail rice): Creamy rice with a variety of mushrooms, truffle, and dashi broth. Caramelized Oxtail, chives, and katsuobushi. The whole thing is a show. It’s hypnotizing.
HOW?! Who gave them permission!?
From now on I don't think I can make a visit to Medellín and skip Mamba Negra. Prices are great, it was around $200 for 3 people, including drinks.
Mamba Negra is located here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VZpxJUVuzqHzJDty5
Instagram: Mamba Negra
Ganso & Castor
A good day has to start with a good breakfast and for that one, my friend and chef Moisés Ramírez gave me this recommendation and so glad he did.
Ganso & Castor is a small but super nice joint on a street in El Poblado. From one of the terrace tables you can enjoy the morning and people watch, one of my favorite things. The area is fantastic and super lush with nature. They are open all day long from 7 AM to 10 PM.
The classics: Orange Juice (fresh and sooooo flavorful, Latin American oranges have that unique taste, IYKYK!) and Colombian Coffee.
When in Colombia: Recalentado. I usually don't enjoy rice for breakfast or heavy dishes but this one was a good dabble into Colombian traditions. It was great and so generously served. One poached egg brought it all together.
Huevos Estrellados: It's a salad for breakfast. I know it does not sound like the best of ideas, but they liked it.
This toast with avocado, sundried tomatoes, and poached eggs was a hit too.
And because I am who I am I had to order an almond croissant.
I'll give it a solid 9/10. I'll certainly go back. I need to try the lunch!
Breakfast for 3 was around $40.
Ganso & Castor is here (they have different locations but this is the one I went to): https://maps.app.goo.gl/KDqf23ZZQps3ZpdV7
Instagram: Ganso Y Castor
Martín Mulatto
Once we left the city to stay at a farm in El Retiro for a couple of nights, I felt like I was leaving the city too soon! how was I going to discover more gems if I was going away from the hype and the buzz? Well, I certainly need to trust my friends because the area is full of destination restaurants.
We drove around 30 minutes to get to this place. The narrowest street off the main road took us into a dark entrance to a lot, and right after the curve, a stunning structure, resembling a cult church, a mysterious and edgy building, Martin Mulatto. How could they possibly? Pictures don't do it justice.
Whose idea was to build such a place, and hide it from the road so masterfully that you won't see it until you're very there. Plus you don't see what goes on inside. Cool.
Well was I in for a surprise. The interior is a beautiful salon, with lots of space, perfect lighting, and a top-of-the-game bar... someone gets married here! (And invite me).
It was a weekday night and it was quiet but our server told us that it is packed during the weekend and it is really hard to get a table sometimes.
Pornstar Martini, then again because I am who I am. Very passion fruit forward. Loved it.
Smoked Salmon spread on a tostada, complimentary. A nice bite.
Grilled artichokes: 3 cheeses ají Amarillo.
Vieiras Martín Mulatto: basil oil, ají amarillo.
Ceviche Martín Mulatto: Salmon, tuna, white fish, octopus, and scallops all in a smoked ají aAmarillo sauce. I overlooked the rice on the menu description and it surprised me when our server combined it all like a tartare. In the end, it all looked like a poke bowl.
Pesca Blanca del Día: Catch of the day on arracacia and pesto purée. Torched on the table.
Dessert: Mulatto por 3. That raspberry sorbet deserves a medal and a spot on the Hall of Fame of sorbets (Imagine if that existed).
I swear we did not plan the ají amarillo theme.
Then again, the restaurant scene around here has their s*it together. Service is impeccable, luxury toiletries in the bathrooms, every space is thoughtfully designed, and the branding is so well executed. For restaurant creatives like me, these experiences are so inspiring.
The Menu is extensive and very diverse in influences. Dinner for 5 was around $300.
Martín Mulatto is here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/dL9DYhWKxpDSnEb29
Instagram: Martín Mulatto
Marmoleo
When in Colombia part 2. You have to hit a grill spot anywhere! Parrilla and beer, you can’t skip it. Colombia is a great producer of meats and all nice things so it is the perfect plan for a chill, extended lunch.
Marmoleo is a very large establishment, to say the least. Hacienda vibes, a touch of modernity, and a lot of nature all around. I loved the views and weather here.
Funny (or extravagant) note: They have helicopter service from Medellín to Llano Grande so you could be flown in directly here. Imagine! Also Marmoleo Llano Grande is very close to the airport, so you could perfectly start your Medellín experience hitting this one.
Grilled Queso fresco: you have to have it. The hardest thing to find here in Aruba.
Chicharrón (Pork belly strips): Insanity, served with some sort of vinaigrette to cut the fats.
Morcilla: This blood and rice sausage is not for everyone but real ones will know.
Churrasco: enough said.
Arepas de Mote.
The service as expected now in my Medellín trip was great. They have an extensive menu, honestly, I think any weekend craving can be satisfied here. Carpaccio, parrilla, salads, soups, you name it they have it. I don't recall very well the prices but my main was around $20.
Marmoleo Llano Grande is here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/E7AMnLGqXve2Qtpr8
Instagram: Marmoleo
Hit the little markets on the side of the roads
Now, if you are driving around El Retiro or on your way to Guatapé, you’ll find lots of food stores on the side of the road. Please do yourself a favor and stop at one. The fruits are the freshest, there’s an abundance of local produce and candy. I got 3 kilos of Mandarin oranges for the road and two small wheels of queso fresco, vacuum sealed and ready to go in my suitcase to bring back home. What I could give to have breakfast tomorrow with some of that cheese on a sourdough toast.
The Airport spots.
Sadly, for this time my journey in Medellín was coming to an end and the airport was the place to have my last meal of the trip.
Pergamino Coffee.
Everyone knows that the best souvenir you can get from Colombia is coffee and I found this store at the international terminal.
The branding again, is impressive. Everything is nicely designed and they will bag your coffee in a security bag (I don’t know why is it even a thing but sure). Pergamino café was beautiful.
They have cool merch. Get your friends some coffee or a mug. I got both and that made me a happy boy.
Instagram: Pergamino Café.
Cumbia House by Carlos Vives.
I had no idea that the singer Carlos Vives was behind a restaurant and a grab-and-go spot at the airport! Our flight got delayed and I was not gonna suffer my way through the flight without a meal so we hit it.
I ordered the Ajiaco, a Colombian traditional chicken soup with potatoes and corn. Very starchy and substantial, perfect for a hangover meal (I know some of you like to party like animals in Medellín). On the side some corn on the cob, white rice, and avocado. It was glorious.
They have many other things on the menu so I wouldn’t hesitate to go back, I might even look forward to it. Also, they have a full bar… for those who are not done with the party, there’s that too.
What a lovely culinary surprise and beautiful city Medellín has been. In a few days I got the chance to taste from the poshest to the fruterías down the road and I am sure there are 1000 more spots to discover. When I was there I got so many recommendations that I’ll make sure to check off the list on my next trip. I see myself going back many, many times.
Until the next one!
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